Print Glossary

Extra artwork that extends beyond the intended cut line of a printed piece. After printing, paper is cut by machine — and no cutter is perfectly precise every time. Bleed provides a small buffer so that any slight variation in the cut lands inside the design rather than exposing bare white paper along an edge.

If your design has any color, image, or graphic that reaches the edge of the finished piece, you need bleed. If your design has an intentional white or colored border around it, bleed is optional — the border acts as its own buffer.

→ Full guide: What Is Print Bleed?

The intended cut edge of the finished piece. When you order a 3.5" × 2" business card, the trim line is the outer boundary of that 3.5" × 2" rectangle. Your document dimensions are measured to the trim line. Bleed extends beyond it; the safe zone sits inside it.

→ Full guide: Bleed, Trim, and Safe Zone Explained

The inner region of the design, at least ⅛" inside the trim line on all sides. Anything important — text, logos, phone numbers, QR codes — must stay inside the safe zone to ensure it won't be cut off. Even a small drift in the cutting machine can clip content placed too close to the edge.

→ Full guide: Bleed, Trim, and Safe Zone Explained  ·  Safe Area & Margins Guide

Intentional clear space around the edges of a design, set inward from the trim line. A standard margin of ¼" gives content room to breathe and reinforces that nothing important will be cut off. Not the same as bleed — bleed extends outward beyond the trim; margin is the padding inside the trim.

→ Full guide: Print Safe Area & Margins Guide

Thin lines at the corners of a print file that show the press operator exactly where to cut. Crop marks live in the bleed zone and get removed during trimming — they never appear on the finished piece. Most design software adds them automatically during PDF export.

In Canva: download as "PDF Print" and check "Crop marks and bleed." In Illustrator or InDesign: enable Trim Marks in the PDF Marks and Bleeds export settings.

→ Full guide: File Setup for Printing  ·  PDF Export Guide

A PDF exported with the correct settings for print: CMYK color mode, 300 DPI images, fonts embedded, bleed included, and document dimensions accurate. A print-ready PDF packages everything into one portable file and is what we prefer for nearly every job.

Export as "PDF (Print)" or "PDF/X-1a" from Illustrator or InDesign. In Canva: download as "PDF Print" and enable "Crop marks and bleed." Not suitable for print: Word documents, PowerPoint slides, screenshots, and images downloaded from websites.

→ Full guide: File Setup for Printing  ·  PDF Export Guide

When a font is embedded in a PDF, the actual font data travels with the document. This ensures text renders exactly as you designed it, even if the printer's system doesn't have that font installed. Print PDFs exported from Illustrator, InDesign, and Canva embed fonts automatically — no extra step needed.

→ Full guide: File Setup for Printing

Converting text to outlines removes the dependency on the font file entirely. Each letter becomes a vector shape rather than live text. This is the standard approach when sending native design files (.ai, .eps) rather than PDFs, since the recipient may not have your fonts installed.

Trade-off: outlined text cannot be edited afterwards. For PDFs, embedded fonts are preferred — they're editable and produce cleaner output on small type.

→ Full guide: File Setup for Printing

In Illustrator and InDesign, images can be either linked (the image sits in a separate file and is referenced by the document) or embedded (the image data is stored inside the document). For print files, always embed all images before sending. Linked files cause missing image errors if the separate image files aren't included alongside the document.

In Illustrator: Window → Links → select all → Embed. If you're submitting a PDF, images are embedded automatically when exported correctly.

→ Full guide: File Setup for Printing

Transparency effects — drop shadows, opacity, blend modes — created in design software must be converted to standard opaque artwork before printing. This process is called flattening. Modern PDF export from Adobe apps handles it automatically when you export as PDF/X-1a or "PDF Print." Issues only arise when saving in older formats like .eps or early PDF versions.

→ Full guide: File Setup for Printing

We accept: PDF (preferred), AI, EPS, PSD, TIFF, and high-resolution JPG or PNG files. PDF is the best choice for almost everything — it packages fonts, colors, and dimensions in one self-contained file.

Not recommended: Word (.doc/.docx), PowerPoint, web screenshots, or images saved from Google or social media. These are screen-format files — typically 72 DPI in RGB — and will not print clearly at professional quality.

→ Full guide: File Setup for Printing

A PDF export standard designed specifically for commercial printing. A PDF/X-1a file is guaranteed to be in CMYK color, have all fonts embedded, all transparency flattened, and include bleed and trim box data. It's the safest format to send a printer.

Available as an export preset in Illustrator and InDesign: File → Export → Adobe PDF (Print) → select the "PDF/X-1a:2001" preset. For most standard jobs, a regular "PDF Print" export works just as well. PDF/X-1a is particularly useful for commercial press and long-run offset jobs where strict compliance is required.

→ Full guide: File Setup for Printing  ·  PDF Export Guide

A PDF standard designed for long-term document preservation. PDF/A embeds all fonts and is self-contained, which makes it a better option for print than a standard Word PDF. Microsoft Word offers PDF/A export (File → Save As → PDF → Options → "ISO 19005-1 compliant (PDF/A)") but does not support PDF/X-1a.

PDF/A is not a full print-ready format — it doesn't guarantee CMYK color mode, doesn't include bleed or crop marks, and doesn't embed trim data. Think of it as the best Word can do, not the ideal. For professional print files, use Illustrator, InDesign, or Canva to export PDF/X-1a or PDF Print.

→ Full guide: PDF Export Guide  ·  Related: PDF/X-1a · Print-ready PDF

PDF — Best for print. Preserves fonts, colors, bleed settings, and document dimensions in one file. Use this for everything if possible.

JPEG — Acceptable for photographic images at 300 DPI. Uses lossy compression — avoid saving the same JPEG repeatedly, as quality degrades with each save. Not ideal for logos, text, or designs with sharp edges (compression introduces artifacts).

PNG — Lossless compression, supports transparency. Good for logos and graphics at 300 DPI. Must be at the correct resolution at final print size — enlarging a PNG reduces its effective DPI.

→ Full guide: File Setup for Printing  ·  Print File Checklist  ·  Common File Mistakes

The four-ink color model used by commercial printers. CMYK works by mixing physical inks on paper. Files sent for print should be in CMYK mode. If you submit an RGB file, it will be converted to CMYK before printing — and some colors, particularly vivid blues, neon greens, and bright oranges, can shift noticeably in the conversion because CMYK inks cannot reproduce every color a screen can display.

To design in CMYK from the start: in Illustrator or InDesign, set the document color mode to CMYK when creating the file. In Photoshop: Image → Mode → CMYK. In Canva: download as "PDF Print" which handles the conversion for you.

→ Full guide: File Setup for Printing  ·  RGB vs CMYK Explained

The color model used by screens, monitors, cameras, and digital displays. RGB works by mixing colored light. RGB can reproduce colors — particularly vivid neons and saturated blues — that CMYK inks cannot match. For print, design in CMYK or submit a print PDF and let the software handle the conversion accurately.

→ Full guide: File Setup for Printing  ·  RGB vs CMYK Explained

The complete range of colors a device or color model can reproduce. RGB screens mix light and can display vivid neons, electric blues, and saturated greens that CMYK inks simply cannot match. When an RGB file is converted to CMYK for printing, out-of-gamut colors are mapped to the nearest printable equivalent — which is why a bright blue can look duller and a neon green can appear muted on paper.

Designing in CMYK from the start keeps your entire palette within the printable gamut, so what you see on your proofing monitor is close to what prints. If your design relies on a specific vibrant color, ask us about spot color (Pantone) options.

→ Full guide: RGB vs CMYK — Print Color Modes Explained

DPI (dots per inch) describes how many ink dots a printer places per inch of output. PPI (pixels per inch) describes the resolution of a digital image file. They are used interchangeably in practice: when someone says "set your image to 300 DPI," they mean the image file should have 300 pixels per inch at its intended print size.

300 DPI is the standard for most print products viewed at normal reading distance — business cards, flyers, brochures, postcards. For large-format products like vinyl banners and backdrops, 100–150 DPI at the actual final size is sufficient because these pieces are viewed from a distance.

→ Full guide: DPI & Print Resolution Guide

How much detail is stored in an image. Higher resolution = more detail = sharper print. "Resolution" and "DPI" are used interchangeably in most print contexts. The standard minimum for print is 300 DPI at the intended print size. An image that looks sharp on screen may still be too low-resolution to print well — screens display at 72–96 DPI, so images always look better on screen than they will in print if resolution is marginal.

→ Full guide: DPI & Print Resolution Guide

A mix of all four CMYK inks used to achieve a deeper, richer-looking black in large printed areas — backgrounds, headers, full-bleed panels. K:100 alone can appear slightly flat or brownish on large areas. Rich black adds depth.

Important: do not use rich black on small text (under 14 pt) or fine lines. The multi-ink mix requires precise registration — slight misalignment causes blurry edges on small type. Use K:100 only for body text and fine detail.

→ Full guide: RGB vs CMYK — Rich Black vs Pure Black  ·  Related: Pure black (K:100)

Black created using only the K (black) ink channel at full density. Pure black prints from a single ink plate, so there is no risk of misregistration — making it the correct choice for body text, fine lines, small type, and any detail where sharpness matters more than depth.

Pure black may look slightly flat or translucent on large solid areas (backgrounds, full-bleed panels), which is where rich black should be used instead. The rule: K:100 for text and detail, rich black for large filled areas.

→ Full guide: RGB vs CMYK — When to Use Rich Black vs Pure Black  ·  Related: Rich black

All four inks at full density. Looks intensely black on screen, but causes severe ink overload when printed — smearing, slow drying, and paper buckling. Registration black exists for printing registration marks (the crosshair targets at the corners of a press sheet), not for design elements. Never use it on artwork.

A standardized ink color system used across the printing industry. Each Pantone color has a code (like PMS 286 C for a specific blue) and a precise ink formula, ensuring the same color looks identical regardless of which printer runs the job.

Digital printing (inkjet and toner) simulates Pantone colors using CMYK — the match is close but not exact. True Pantone matching requires spot-color offset printing, which is less common for small runs. If brand color accuracy is critical, ask us about your options.

A printing method where each color is applied as its own premixed ink rather than being built from CMYK dots. Spot printing is more expensive per color but delivers more precise, consistent results — especially for brand colors that need to look identical across multiple print runs. Common in business stationery, packaging, and signage.

Standard commercial color printing. Four inks — cyan, magenta, yellow, and black — are layered in tiny dots at varying densities to reproduce full-color images and designs. Also called "process color" or "CMYK printing." The vast majority of everyday print products are full-color process.

A color mode using only shades of gray from white to black, printed with the black ink channel only. Set files to Grayscale mode before exporting when printing in black and white. If you submit a CMYK file for a "black and white" job, the printer will use only the K channel — but leftover CMYK data can sometimes cause unexpected color tinting.

The process of reducing file size by discarding or reorganizing image data. JPEG uses lossy compression — each save permanently discards detail. PNG and TIFF use lossless compression — file size is reduced without losing data.

For print: avoid heavily compressed JPEGs (quality below 80%) and never resave a JPEG repeatedly from an editing program — quality degrades with every save cycle. Always work from the highest-quality original and export once.

→ Full guide: DPI & Print Resolution Guide

What happens when a raster image is enlarged beyond its resolution limit. Individual pixels become visible as blocky squares, or the image looks blurry and jagged. The most common cause in print: using a small image from a website (typically 72 DPI) and scaling it up to fill a large printed format.

There is no fix for pixelation after the fact. You cannot restore lost detail by resampling or increasing DPI in software — the original pixel data is simply not there. The only solution is a higher-resolution source image.

→ Full guide: DPI & Print Resolution Guide

An image with insufficient pixel density to print clearly at the intended size. Common sources: screenshots, images saved from websites or Google (typically 72–96 DPI), images pulled from social media (compressed and small), and thumbnail images from stock libraries.

Always use the original high-resolution source file — the native design file, the original photo, or the full-size stock image download. If you're unsure about your image resolution, email the file to us and we'll check it before production.

→ Full guide: DPI & Print Resolution Guide

A graphic format defined by mathematical paths and curves rather than a fixed grid of pixels. Vector graphics scale to any size — from a postage stamp to a building wrap — without losing sharpness or becoming pixelated. Logos and line art should always be kept as vector files. Common formats: Adobe Illustrator (.ai), Encapsulated PostScript (.eps), Scalable Vector Graphics (.svg).

→ Related: DPI & Print Resolution Guide

A pixel-based image format. Resolution is fixed at the time the image is created — enlarging a raster image reduces its effective DPI and causes softness or visible pixelation. Raster images for standard print must be at least 300 DPI at the final print size. For large format (banners, backdrops), 100–150 DPI at final size is acceptable.

→ Full guide: DPI & Print Resolution Guide

A smooth, reflective surface coating applied to paper. Gloss makes colors appear more vivid and saturated — photos look richer and designs with bold colors pop more than on uncoated paper. Trade-off: gloss surfaces show fingerprints and are difficult to write on. Common products: business cards, flyers, postcards, product catalogs.

→ Full guide: Paper Types Explained  ·  Matte vs Gloss vs Uncoated

A non-reflective coated surface. Colors are slightly less saturated than on gloss, but there's no glare and text is generally easier to read. Matte surfaces can often be written on with a ballpoint pen. Preferred for professional services, high-end brands, and pieces with dense body text.

→ Full guide: Paper Types Explained  ·  Matte vs Gloss vs Uncoated

Paper with no coating. Ink absorbs into the fiber rather than sitting on the surface, giving a slightly rougher texture and a more natural feel. Colors appear less vibrant than on coated stocks, but uncoated paper takes pen, marker, and stamps well. Used for letterhead, forms, envelopes, legal documents, and anything that needs to be written on after printing.

→ Full guide: Paper Types Explained  ·  Matte vs Gloss vs Uncoated

Heavy paper stock used for printed pieces that need to be stiff and durable. Business cards, postcards, hang tags, and table tents are printed on cardstock. Measured in pounds (lb cover) or points (pt). A standard business card is typically 14 pt — roughly the thickness of a credit card.

→ Full guide: Paper Types — Cardstock vs. Text Weight  ·  Paper Weight Guide

A lighter paper stock intended for pieces that fold or flex. Flyers, brochures, and booklet pages are typically printed on text weight paper. A 100 lb text stock is noticeably heavier and more premium than standard copy paper, but still light enough to fold cleanly along a scored crease. Note: "100 lb text" and "100 lb cover" are different — cover stock is heavier because it's measured from a larger reference sheet.

→ Full guide: Paper Types Explained  ·  Paper Weight Guide

A heavy paper stock category used for pieces that need to feel stiff and substantial. Business cards, postcards, booklet covers, and table tents are all printed on cover weight stocks. Measured in pounds (lb cover) — not to be confused with text weight, which uses a different reference sheet size. For example, 100 lb cover is much thicker and stiffer than 100 lb text.

Common cover weights: 80 lb cover (economical, flexible cover), 100 lb cover (sturdy catalog cover), 130 lb cover (premium postcard and business card stock). Point thickness (14 pt, 16 pt) is an alternative way to measure the same stocks.

→ Full guide: Paper Types Explained  ·  Paper Weight Guide  ·  Postcard Paper & Finish Guide  ·  Brochure Paper & Finish Guide  ·  Related: Text weight · 14 pt / 16 pt cardstock

Point measurements describe paper thickness in thousandths of an inch. 14 pt is the most common business card stock — solid, professional, what most people expect when they receive a well-made card. 16 pt is noticeably thicker and stiffer, with a premium feel that makes an impression.

For reference: a standard credit card is about 30 pt. Our default cardstock is 130 lb Gloss Cover, which runs approximately 14 pt. If you want 16 pt, mention it when requesting a quote.

→ Full guide: Paper Types Explained

An international system for measuring paper weight based on the weight in grams of one square meter of the paper. Unlike the US pound system — where "100 lb text" and "100 lb cover" refer to completely different weights — GSM is a single, universal scale. A sheet of 350 GSM paper is always heavier than a sheet of 120 GSM paper, regardless of the paper category.

Common reference points: copy paper is about 80 GSM, a premium flyer stock is around 120 GSM, light cardstock is roughly 216 GSM, and thick business card stock is 300–350 GSM. GSM is the standard in most countries outside the US and is increasingly used by US printers and paper suppliers alongside the pound system.

→ Full guide: Paper Weight Guide  ·  Related: Text weight · Cover weight · 14 pt / 16 pt

Paper fibers align in one direction during manufacturing — called the grain direction. Folding with the grain produces a clean, crisp crease. Folding against the grain can crack or warp the paper, especially on coated stocks. For brochures and folded products, our production process accounts for grain direction automatically. This becomes relevant if you're doing any hand-folding of printed sheets yourself.

→ Full guide: Brochure Fold Types

Coated paper has a surface treatment — gloss or matte — that improves color vibrancy and controls ink spread, producing sharper detail and more saturated color. Uncoated paper has no surface treatment; ink absorbs into the fiber, producing a natural texture and slightly muted color.

The practical choice: coated for anything where color and photography matter (business cards, flyers, postcards, catalogs). Uncoated for anything that needs to be written on or that benefits from a natural, tactile feel (letterhead, notepads, menus with updates).

→ Full guide: Paper Types Explained  ·  Matte vs Gloss vs Uncoated  ·  Postcard Paper & Finish Guide  ·  Brochure Paper & Finish Guide

A durable, flexible PVC-based material used for large-format banners. Standard 13 oz vinyl is the default for most banners — it handles sun, rain, and moderate wind. Heavier 15–18 oz vinyl is available for extra durability. Printed with UV-resistant inks and finished with hems and grommets. Typical outdoor lifespan is 2–5 years depending on sun exposure.

→ Full guide: Banner Materials Guide

A perforated vinyl banner material designed for windy outdoor locations. Tiny holes across the surface let wind pass through, dramatically reducing stress on mounting points. Colors are slightly less vivid up close due to the perforations, but the difference is minimal at normal viewing distance (10+ feet). Used for building wraps, fence banners, and exposed parking lot displays.

→ Full guide: Banner Materials Guide

A lightweight rigid panel with a polystyrene foam center between smooth paper or plastic faces. Produces sharp, vivid prints and is easy to cut and mount. The trade-off is fragility — foam board dents easily, warps in humidity, and deteriorates quickly outdoors. Use for presentations, trade show displays, event signage, retail point-of-purchase displays, and photo or art mounting.

→ Full guide: Foam Board vs. Corrugated Plastic  ·  Indoor vs. Outdoor Signage Guide  ·  Mounted Poster vs. Foam Board

A rigid display board with a high-density foam core laminated between wood-fiber faces. Gator board is significantly stronger and more warp-resistant than standard foam board while being only slightly heavier. It doesn't dent as easily and holds up better through repeated handling — making it the go-to for trade show displays, gallery-quality mounted prints, and indoor signage that needs to survive multiple events.

Still an indoor material — not waterproof like PVC or aluminum dibond. Think of gator board as the upgrade from foam board when durability matters but outdoor weather resistance doesn't.

→ Full guide: Mounted Poster vs. Foam Board  ·  Related: Foam board · PVC board · Mounting

The plastic equivalent of corrugated cardboard. Lightweight, waterproof, and inexpensive — the standard material for yard signs, real estate signs, political signs, directional signs, and event wayfinding. Handles rain and moderate wind but fades under UV exposure after 6–18 months. Not designed for permanent signage.

→ Full guide: Indoor vs. Outdoor Signage Guide  ·  Yard Sign Guide  ·  Foam Board vs. Corrugated Plastic

The orientation of the internal ridges (flutes) in corrugated plastic sheets. Vertical flutes run top-to-bottom and provide rigidity for freestanding signs — they also allow wire H-stakes to slide in from the bottom edge for ground mounting. Horizontal flutes run side-to-side and let the material flex or curve, useful for wrapping around poles or curved surfaces.

For standard yard signs and freestanding displays, vertical flutes are the default. If you need a sign to bend or wrap, ask for horizontal flute orientation when ordering.

→ Full guide: Yard Sign Guide  ·  Related: Coroplast · H-stake

A rigid solid plastic panel that's waterproof, UV-resistant, and significantly more durable than foam board or coroplast. Prints with excellent detail and color. Common thicknesses are 3mm and 6mm. Used for storefront signs, directional signage, menu boards, interior wayfinding, and permanent outdoor property signs. Lasts 3–7+ years outdoors.

→ Full guide: Indoor vs. Outdoor Signage Guide

Two thin aluminum sheets bonded to a solid polyethylene core. The most durable rigid signage material available — resistant to rust, warping, denting, UV fading, and all weather conditions. Ultra-smooth surface produces exceptionally sharp prints. Used for permanent outdoor building signs, parking lot signs, and commercial wayfinding. Lasts 5–10+ years outdoors.

→ Full guide: Indoor vs. Outdoor Signage Guide

A thin vinyl film that adheres to smooth glass using static charge alone — no adhesive backing. Can be peeled off and repositioned without leaving residue, making it ideal for seasonal promotions, temporary hours notices, and rotating storefront graphics. Applied to the inside of the glass (second-surface printing), so the graphic is protected from weather and tampering.

Requires clean, smooth glass for a good bond. Works best on flat surfaces — large curved panes may cause lifting at the edges. Not suitable for textured, frosted, or exterior-facing applications.

→ Full guide: Window Cling vs. Window Perforation  ·  Related: Perforated window vinyl

An adhesive vinyl film printed with a pattern of tiny holes (typically 50/50 or 60/40 perforation ratio) that creates one-way visibility. From outside, the graphic appears solid and vibrant. From inside, occupants can see through the perforations because interior light is lower than exterior light.

Applied to the exterior of the glass with a clear laminate overlay for weather protection. Permanent adhesive — professional removal required. Used for storefront wraps, vehicle rear windows, office privacy partitions, and large-scale window branding.

→ Full guide: Window Cling vs. Window Perforation  ·  Related: Static cling vinyl

A thin plastic film applied to the printed surface after the ink is dry. Lamination makes printed pieces more durable — resistant to moisture, scuffs, tearing, and UV fading. Available in gloss, matte, and soft-touch finishes. Common on business cards, menus, pocket folders, and marketing materials that get handled frequently.

→ Full guide: Lamination Guide  ·  Print Finishing Options  ·  Menu Printing Guide

A non-reflective laminate finish. Matte lamination reads as high-end and professional, with no glare in any lighting condition. Slightly reduces color vibrancy compared to gloss lamination, but text is easier to read and the surface has a clean, sophisticated look. Common on premium business cards, presentation folders, and covers.

→ Full guide: Lamination Guide

A shiny plastic laminate that makes colors appear more vivid and saturated. Gloss lamination adds significant durability — protection against moisture, scuffs, and UV fading. Common on menus, retail cards, and promotional pieces meant to be reused or displayed for extended periods.

→ Full guide: Lamination Guide

A specialty laminate with a slightly textured, velvety surface. Soft-touch is tactilely distinct from standard matte lamination — it has a slight grip and a warm, rubber-like feel that stands out when someone handles the piece. More expensive than standard laminates, but popular for premium business cards, packaging, and book covers where the physical feel matters as much as the print.

→ Full guide: Lamination Guide

A liquid coating applied to printed pieces and cured instantly under UV light, producing a very hard, high-gloss surface. UV coating can be applied to the full printed surface (flood UV) or selectively to specific areas (spot UV) for a dramatic contrast effect — for example, a matte laminated card with a glossy logo in spot UV.

UV coating is more scratch-resistant than standard lamination and produces a more intense gloss. It's a premium finishing option most appropriate for high-visibility marketing materials and branded collateral.

→ Full guide: Print Finishing Options  ·  Related: Spot UV

UV coating applied only to specific areas of a printed piece — a logo, an image, a headline — rather than the entire surface. The result is a dramatic gloss-on-matte contrast: the coated areas shine and reflect light while the surrounding matte surface stays flat and subdued.

Spot UV is a premium finishing option. The most common combination is a matte laminated card with spot UV on the logo or key graphic. It adds both visual and tactile dimension — you can feel the raised gloss areas with your fingernail. Popular on business cards, book covers, packaging, and high-end marketing collateral.

→ Full guide: Print Finishing Options  ·  Related: UV coating

A water-based coating applied immediately after printing on press. Aqueous coating is faster and less expensive than lamination or UV coating — it dries quickly, protects ink from smudging and fingerprints, and produces a moderate sheen. Very common on postcards, marketing mailers, and catalog covers that need basic protection without the cost of full lamination.

→ Full guide: Print Finishing Options  ·  Lamination Guide

A line pressed (not cut) into the paper to create a pre-defined fold point. Scoring compresses the paper fibers along the fold line so the piece folds cleanly and precisely. Required for any folded piece thicker than standard text weight — especially coated stocks, which crack along unscored folds. Standard on brochures, greeting cards, and pocket folders.

→ Full guide: Brochure Fold Types  ·  Print Finishing Options  ·  Brochure Paper & Finish Guide

Visible white lines or fractures that appear along a fold in coated or heavy paper. The coating layer cracks at the bend point, exposing the white paper fiber beneath. The heavier and glossier the stock, the more likely cracking is. Fold cracking is prevented by scoring — pressing a crease into the paper before folding — which is standard practice for all coated stocks above 80 lb text.

→ Full guide: Brochure Paper & Finish Guide  ·  Related: Scoring · Folding

A finishing process where a flat printed sheet is folded into panels. The fold type determines how many panels the piece has and how it opens. Folding is always preceded by scoring on coated or heavy stocks.

→ Full guide: Brochure Fold Types  ·  Print Finishing Options

A row of small evenly-spaced cuts pressed through a sheet, creating a tear-off strip or detachable section. Common applications: coupons with tear-off portions, event tickets, reply cards attached to mailers. Perforation is punched or laser-cut after printing.

→ Full guide: Print Finishing Options

Cutting a printed sheet into a custom shape using a steel die — a blade bent into the desired shape and pressed through the material. Die cutting allows shapes beyond standard rectangles: rounded corners, circle stickers, arched hang tags, shaped packaging inserts. Die cutting costs more than straight cuts due to die creation, but the dies are reusable for future runs.

→ Full guide: Print Finishing Options

Cutting the sharp 90° corners of a printed piece into smooth rounded arcs. Corner rounding is the simplest form of die cutting — it's a standard finish that softens the look of a card or tag without adding much cost. The most common radius is ⅛" — subtle enough to look refined without being dramatic. Standard on premium business cards, hang tags, and folded mini menus.

→ Full guide: Print Finishing Options  ·  Business Card Sizes, Shapes & Bleed

The process of adhering a printed sheet to a rigid substrate to create a self-supporting display panel. The print is bonded flat to the board surface using pressure-sensitive adhesive or heat lamination. Mounting turns a flexible paper or vinyl print into something that can stand on an easel, hang on a wall, or sit in a display frame without curling or sagging.

Common substrates: foam board (lightweight, indoor only), PVC/Sintra (waterproof, indoor and outdoor), aluminum dibond (premium, permanent outdoor). The choice of substrate depends on where the piece will be displayed and how long it needs to last.

→ Full guide: Print Finishing Options  ·  Mounted Poster vs. Foam Board  ·  Related: Foam board · PVC board · Aluminum dibond

Decorative hardware that mounts a rigid sign panel to a wall with a visible gap between the sign and the surface. Each standoff consists of a barrel (the spacer) and a cap that screws into it, pinching the sign panel in place. The floating effect creates a clean, modern, dimensional look. Available in brushed metal, chrome, and acrylic finishes.

Common for lobby signs, office wayfinding, reception displays, and interior branding. Works with foam board, PVC/Sintra, acrylic, and aluminum dibond panels. Requires pre-drilled holes in the sign panel — provide hole placement in your file or let the print shop handle it.

→ Full guide: Mounted Poster vs. Foam Board  ·  Related: Mounting · PVC board

Metal eyelets pressed into holes along the edges of a vinyl banner or sign, used to hang the piece with rope, zip ties, or bungee cords. Standard grommet placement is every two feet along the perimeter. Grommets are essential hardware for banners displayed outdoors, mounted to fencing, pipe-and-drape frames, or building facades.

→ Full guide: Banner Materials Guide

A reinforcement technique for vinyl banners where the outer edges are folded over and heat-welded (or sewn) to create a thick, sealed border. Hemming prevents the vinyl from fraying, stretching, or tearing along the edges — especially critical at corners and grommet locations where stress concentrates. Standard on all our vinyl banners.

→ Full guide: Banner Materials Guide

A sewn fold along one or both edges of a banner that creates a sleeve for a pole or rod to slide through. Used when you want to hang a banner between two poles, from a ceiling mount, or on a wall-mounted bracket. Pole pockets give a cleaner look than grommets because the hanging hardware is hidden inside the sleeve.

→ Full guide: Banner Materials Guide

Small horizontal cuts made in a solid vinyl banner to allow wind to pass through without using full mesh material. Wind slits are a middle ground — they reduce wind stress while preserving most of the banner's visual impact and color vibrancy. Useful for moderately windy locations where you want the vivid color of solid vinyl but need some wind relief.

→ Full guide: Banner Materials Guide

A metal wire frame shaped like the letter H that serves as the standard ground mount for corrugated plastic yard signs. The two vertical prongs of the H slide into the flutes of the coroplast panel, and the pointed legs push into the ground. Quick to install — no tools needed, just push by hand or step on the crossbar.

Standard H-stakes are about 15 inches tall (above ground) and fit signs up to 24 inches wide. Taller stakes (24–30 inches) are available for larger signs or when extra ground clearance is needed — for example, above tall grass or landscaping. H-stakes are reusable across multiple sign replacements.

→ Full guide: Yard Sign Guide  ·  Related: Coroplast · Flute direction · Yard sign

The standard US business card is 3.5 inches wide by 2 inches tall — the size that fits every standard cardholder and wallet. Set your document to these dimensions, then add ⅛" bleed on all sides, making your actual canvas 3.75" × 2.25".

→ Full guide: Business Card Sizes & File Setup  ·  Sizes, Shapes & Bleed  ·  Paper & Finish Guide  ·  Order Business Cards

The most common US postcard sizes: 4"×6" (standard promo card), 5"×7" (invitations and larger promos), 6"×9" (oversized mailer), 6"×11" (jumbo — maximum for USPS First-Class rate). For USPS standard postcard rate, the piece must be at least 3.5"×5" and no larger than 4.25"×6". Anything larger qualifies as a letter and mails at a higher rate.

→ Full guide: Postcard Size Guide  ·  Postcard Paper & Finish Guide  ·  Direct Mail & EDDM Guide  ·  USPS Mailing Requirements

A mandatory blank area along the bottom of the mailing side of any piece sent through USPS. The clear zone spans the full width of the piece and is ⅝" (0.625") tall, measured from the bottom edge. USPS sorting machines print the Intelligent Mail barcode (IMb) in this area — if text, images, or design elements are in the way, the mail may be delayed, returned, or charged at a higher rate.

This is one of the most common mistakes on mailed postcards. When designing the address side, leave the bottom ⅝" completely blank — no footer text, no decorative borders, no background color running to the bottom edge of the address panel.

→ Full guide: USPS Postcard Mailing Requirements  ·  Postcard Design Tips  ·  Related: Postcard sizes · Direct mail

USPS offers a discounted postcard rate for pieces that meet strict size and thickness limits: 3.5"–4.25" tall, 5"–6" wide, and 0.007"–0.016" thick. A standard 4"×6" postcard on 14 pt cardstock qualifies. Anything larger — 5"×7", 6"×9", 6"×11" — mails at the higher First-Class letter rate, even if it's a single flat card with no envelope.

The per-piece rate difference is meaningful at volume. If you're mailing 1,000+ postcards and don't need the extra size, staying within postcard-rate dimensions can save significantly on postage. If impact matters more than cost, larger sizes get more attention in the mailbox.

→ Full guide: USPS Postcard Mailing Requirements  ·  Postcard Size Guide  ·  Related: Postcard sizes · Barcode clear zone · Direct mail

Standard flyer sizes in inches: full sheet (8.5"×11") is the most common — fits any folder or display rack. Half sheet (5.5"×8.5") is economical and easy to hand out in person. Quarter sheet (4.25"×5.5") is compact for tabletop or counter display. Tabloid (11"×17") makes a poster-size statement and works well for event promotions.

→ Full guide: Flyer Size Guide  ·  How to Choose the Right Print Product

Vinyl banners are ordered by the foot. Common sizes: 2'×4' (counter or lobby), 2'×6' (standard storefront), 3'×6' (street-facing facade), 4'×8' (event backdrop), 4'×10' (grand opening or wide storefronts). File setup: 100–150 DPI at the final printed size with ½"–1" bleed on all sides.

→ Full guide: Banner Size Guide  ·  Choosing the Right Sign  ·  Large-Format Printing Guide

A self-standing display banner with a spring-loaded mechanism in the base that allows the graphic to retract for compact storage and transport. The standard size is 33 inches wide by 80 inches tall. Also available in narrower tabletop formats (24") and wider event formats (47"–60"). Designed for trade shows, lobby displays, and event booths.

→ Full guide: Vinyl Banner vs Retractable Banner vs Feather Flag  ·  Large-Format Printing Guide

The fold determines how many panels a brochure has and how it opens. The tri-fold (letter fold) divides a standard 8.5"×11" sheet into three equal panels — it's the format you'd find in a hotel lobby or on a retail counter. Half-fold produces four panels. Z-fold creates an accordion-style open. Gate fold has four panels that open from the center, like a gate — a dramatic presentation for premium pieces.

→ Full guide: Brochure Fold Types  ·  How to Choose the Right Print Product  ·  Brochure Paper & Finish Guide

Booklet dimensions refer to the finished trimmed size — not the flat sheet size before folding. The most common booklet sizes in the US:

→ Full guide: Booklet Size Guide  ·  Page Count Guide  ·  Booklet Binding Options

A booklet binding method where sheets are nested and stapled through the spine fold. The most economical booklet binding available. Works well for catalogs, event programs, menus, and booklets up to about 64 pages. Each sheet adds 4 pages — so total page count must be a multiple of 4. Cover and inside pages are typically printed on different paper weights.

→ Full guide: Booklet Binding Options  ·  Page Count Guide  ·  Booklet Size Guide  ·  Related: Page creep · Self-cover vs plus-cover

A binding method where pages are stacked flat, ground at the spine edge, and glued to a wrap-around cover. This is how most paperback books, thick catalogs, and print magazines are bound. The square spine allows for title text. More durable and professional than saddle stitch for pieces with significant page counts.

→ Full guide: Booklet Binding Options  ·  Page Count Guide  ·  Booklet Size Guide

A binding method where a continuous plastic or metal coil is threaded through a row of small round holes along the spine. The result lies completely flat on a surface and can fold 360 degrees — a full fold-back. Pages turn freely without resistance. The go-to binding for training manuals, cookbooks, reference guides, workbooks, and any document used as a working reference. Works for 10–300+ pages with any page count (no multiple requirement).

→ Full guide: Booklet Binding Options

A binding method using a plastic comb with curved fingers that slot into rectangular holes punched along the spine. The comb can be opened to add, remove, or replace individual pages — making it practical for documents that need periodic updates, like policy manuals, HR handbooks, and internal procedure documents. Lies flat like spiral binding but the comb teeth are less durable than a continuous coil.

→ Full guide: Booklet Binding Options

Self-cover means the cover is printed on the same paper stock as the interior pages. The booklet is one uniform thickness throughout. This is more economical and works well for programs, newsletters, and internal documents where a premium feel isn't critical.

Plus-cover means the cover is printed on a heavier, stiffer stock than the interior — for example, 80 lb gloss cover for the outside and 80 lb gloss text for the inside pages. Plus-cover adds durability and a more polished feel, making it the standard for catalogs, lookbooks, and marketing booklets.

→ Full guide: Booklet Page Count Guide  ·  Booklet Binding Options  ·  Booklet Size Guide

A phenomenon in saddle-stitched booklets where the innermost pages extend slightly beyond the outer pages after folding. This happens because each nested sheet adds a small amount of thickness, pushing inner pages outward. When the booklet is trimmed to a clean edge, the inner pages lose more of their outer margin than the outer pages do.

The effect is minimal in thin booklets (8–16 pages) but becomes noticeable above 32 pages. The printer compensates by gradually shifting content inward on inner pages during prepress — a process called shingling or creep adjustment. Keep critical content within the safe zone and this is handled automatically.

→ Full guide: Booklet Page Count Guide  ·  Related: Saddle stitch · Safe zone

A freestanding sidewalk sign shaped like an inverted V. Double-sided so messaging is visible from both directions of foot traffic. Used outside storefronts, restaurants, retail entrances, and events. Can use interchangeable printed inserts or permanently applied vinyl graphics. Standard sizes are 18"×24" and 24"×36" per face.

→ Full guide: Choosing the Right Sign  ·  Event Printing Checklist

A temporary outdoor sign printed on corrugated plastic (coroplast) and displayed on a wire H-stake pushed into the ground. The standard size is 18×24 inches — large enough to read from across a street, small enough for a standard stake. 24×36 is used when more visibility or content space is needed.

Common uses: real estate open house signs, political campaign signs, contractor job site signs, event directional signs, and small business advertising. Yard signs are designed for temporary use — typically lasting 6–18 months outdoors before UV fading becomes noticeable.

→ Full guide: Yard Sign Guide  ·  Related: Coroplast · H-stake · Flute direction  ·  Order Yard Signs

A large printed backdrop showing a repeating logo or brand pattern — the standard backdrop at press events, award ceremonies, charity galas, and brand activations. Printed on vinyl or fabric and mounted on a pop-up frame. Typically 8 to 10 feet wide. The "step and repeat" name refers to the grid pattern of alternating logos, positioned so that any photo crop shows at least one complete logo.

→ Order Backdrops  ·  Large-Format Printing Guide  ·  Event Printing Checklist

Any print larger than what a standard desktop printer can handle — generally anything wider than 13 inches. Large-format printers use roll-fed or flatbed inkjet technology and can print on paper, vinyl, fabric, rigid board, and other specialty substrates. Common large-format products include posters, vinyl banners, retractable banners, backdrops, rigid signs, yard signs, and wall graphics. Resolution requirements scale with viewing distance: 300 DPI for prints viewed close-up, 150 DPI for standard banners, and 72–100 DPI for very large outdoor prints seen from a distance.

→ Full guide: Large-Format Printing Guide  ·  Banner Size Guide

A small folded sign printed on heavy cardstock that stands upright on a table or counter. Table tents are scored for a clean fold and printed on both visible faces. Common uses include table numbers at events, restaurant specials, sponsor recognition cards, QR codes for check-in or donations, and silent auction lot descriptions. A standard table tent is about 4 × 6 inches when folded.

→ Full guide: Event Printing Checklist

A menu printed for restaurants, cafés, bars, and food service businesses. The format depends on how much content you have and how the menu will be used. A single flat sheet (8.5×11") works for small menus and daily specials. A bi-fold or tri-fold provides more panels for larger menus. A saddle-stitched booklet handles extensive wine lists, multi-course tasting menus, or multi-page food menus.

Dine-in menus should be printed on heavy cardstock with lamination — gloss lamination is easiest to wipe clean; matte lamination looks more refined. Without lamination, a reusable menu may last only a few days of daily handling before it looks worn. Takeout and disposable menus can use lighter text-weight paper without lamination.

→ Full guide: Menu Printing Guide  ·  Related: Lamination · Brochure fold types · Saddle stitch

Any printed marketing material sent through the postal system to a physical address. Includes postcards, letters in envelopes, catalogs, brochures, and self-mailers. Direct mail has a higher open rate than email for most local campaigns because the piece arrives physically in the recipient's hands. Two main approaches: targeted mailing list (you provide or purchase specific addresses) and Every Door Direct Mail (EDDM), which delivers to every address on selected carrier routes without needing a list.

→ Full guide: Direct Mail & EDDM Guide  ·  Postcard Size Guide

A USPS program that lets you send mail to every address on a postal carrier route without needing a mailing list. You select routes by ZIP code and USPS delivers to every residential or business address on those routes. Postage is approximately $0.22 per piece — significantly cheaper than first-class mail. Mailpieces must be larger than standard letter size (most common: 6.5 × 9, 6.5 × 12, or 8.5 × 11 postcards). Ideal for restaurants, retail stores, dentists, realtors, and any local business targeting a geographic radius.

→ Full guide: Direct Mail & EDDM Guide

A geographic area served by a single USPS mail carrier. Each carrier route covers a defined set of addresses within a ZIP code — typically 200 to 800 households. When planning an EDDM campaign, you select specific carrier routes using the USPS route selection tool and print the exact quantity needed for those routes. Route household counts vary, so always select routes before printing.

→ Full guide: Direct Mail & EDDM Guide

Envelopes are sized to match the printed pieces they carry. The #10 envelope (4⅛ × 9½") is the most common business envelope — it fits an 8.5×11" letter folded in thirds or a standard tri-fold brochure. A7 (5¼ × 7¼") fits a 5×7 invitation or card. A2 (4⅜ × 5¾") fits RSVP cards and A2-size note cards.

→ Full guide: Envelope Size Guide  ·  Direct Mail & EDDM Guide

A representation of how the final piece will look before printing begins. Reviewing a proof is your last opportunity to catch errors in spelling, layout, color, or sizing. We send digital proofs on all orders unless you opt out. Approve the proof promptly — turnaround time starts after proof approval, not when the order is placed.

→ Proofing & Approval Guide  ·  What Affects Turnaround Time

A PDF file showing the final layout, colors, and dimensions as they will print. Digital proofs are the standard for most jobs. They allow quick review and approval without requiring a physical printed sample. Note: color may vary slightly between on-screen appearance and actual printed output — monitors display in RGB; print output is CMYK.

An actual physical printout produced before the full print run. Hard proofs are used when color accuracy is critical — for branded materials with specific Pantone colors, packaging, or long-run jobs where a color mismatch would be costly to reprint. Adds time and cost to the job. Ask us if you need a hard proof.

The time between when a job is approved and when it is ready for pickup or ships. Turnaround starts after you approve your proof — not when you place the order. Standard turnaround is 1–3 business days depending on the product and quantity. Same-day pickup is available on most common items when ordered and approved by 2 PM Monday–Friday.

→ Full guide: Turnaround Time Guide  ·  Same-Day Printing Guide  ·  What Affects Turnaround Time

Expedited printing with faster-than-standard turnaround. Rush orders move ahead of the standard production queue and may carry a rush fee depending on the job. At ABC Printing, same-day pickup is available on most items ordered by 2 PM Monday–Friday. Call ahead to confirm availability for large or complex jobs before placing a rush order.

→ Full guide: Same-Day Printing Guide  ·  What Affects Turnaround Time

The total number of copies produced in a single job. Print run quantity matters because setup costs are mostly fixed — it costs roughly the same to prepare the press for 100 pieces as for 1,000. That's why the price per unit drops at higher quantities, and why ordering at a quantity break is often smarter than ordering just below it.

A specific quantity at which the per-unit price decreases — typically because fixed setup costs are spread over more pieces. Common breaks for digitally printed products: 50, 100, 250, 500, 1,000. Ordering just below a break (say, 240 instead of 250) often costs nearly as much as the next tier, for fewer pieces. Check the pricing table on any product page to see where the breaks fall.

A fee charged to cover the time and materials required to prepare a job for print — mounting plates, calibrating the press, running test sheets. Setup fees are more common in traditional offset printing. Digital printing, which we primarily use, typically has no separate setup fee — the cost is built into the per-unit pricing at each quantity tier.

The process of positioning multiple document pages onto a single large press sheet so that when the sheet is printed, folded, and trimmed, all pages appear in the correct sequence. For saddle-stitched booklets, imposition means non-sequential pages are printed side by side — for example, pages 1 and 8 share the same side of a sheet because they end up on opposite sides of the same leaf after folding.

Imposition is handled entirely by the print shop — customers supply single pages in normal reading order (page 1, page 2, page 3, etc.) and the prepress software arranges them automatically. No need to manually rearrange your pages.

→ Full guide: Booklet Size Guide  ·  Booklet Page Count Guide  ·  Related: Saddle stitch · Page creep

The minimum number of units that can be ordered for a specific product. Minimums exist because producing fewer units doesn't justify the fixed setup time and materials. If you need fewer than the listed minimum, contact us — we can sometimes accommodate smaller quantities with a custom quote.

Running an additional quantity of a job that has been printed before, using the same approved artwork. If your file hasn't changed, a reprint typically has faster setup since the work has already been approved. Pricing is based on the quantity ordered — not a discount from the original. File retrieval charges may apply if the original needs to be located and reformatted.